Herd of Indian Wild ass in Little Rann of Kutch.

Herd of  Indian Wild ass in Little Rann of Kutch.

Tuesday 26 January 2021

Solo Motorcycling to the "Great Rann " of Kutch and " Statue of Unity " at Kevadia in Gujarat. and back to Mumbai.

Only the "White Desert" in the Great Rann of Kutch and Lakshadweep Islands was missing from my portfolio of travel to major tourist locales in India. I had visited the "Little Rann of Kutch" with "B.N.H.S" group in December 2014 and the same travelogue is combined with this "Great Rann of Kutch" solo experience."Covid-19" besides taking numerous human lives across the Globe has almost destroyed the hospitality and travel Industry.International travel was out of bounds and hence decided to try a "Dakar Rally" in India by motorcycling from Mumbai to Bhuj and from there the Great Rann of Kutch.My school mate friends Mr Biju.Karian and Mr Sanjay.Handu from Bengaluru(Bangalore) are hard core avid bike riders and Mr Sanjay.Handu had suggested a idea of riding to the "Rann Utsav" festival in the Great Rann of Kutch.This idea germinated in my mind and although the duo in Bangalore got busy on other walks of life i decided to get back to travel action through a 2000 + Kms motorcycle ride from Mumbai to the Great Rann of Kutch and back.Better late than too late as time was not on my side. Not child's play at my young age. Ahoy !
A 2000 + Kms ride from Mumbai to the Great Rann of Kutch and back to Mumbai.


On Monday(25/1/2021) left my home at 0545 hrs and tested my riding skills and stamina to the maximum by riding non-stop 740 Kms with intermediate breaks only for refueling petrol .How many 60 year old's can join "Braggers Club"  for this feat. Ahoy ! Marriage can wait as i am still young !
Ajanta Hotel in Shikarpur
Alankar Hotel in Shikarpur

From Mumbai to Ahmedabad the highway's were excellent and from Bharuch to Ahmedabad ring road it was like riding on a "Moto GP circuit" . There is no need to enter Ahmedabad and my  riding nightmare began from "Highway NH 947"  Ahmedabad by-pass road to  Malia with some stretches of the highway excellent while a few stretches akin to playing "Russian Roulette" on the highway.From Malia was next riding on "Highway NH 27" where container trucks monopolized the highway and a slight error of judgement could result in a mishap.


Gujarati Vegetarian Thali dinner at Hotel Ajanta

At approximately 1845 hrs reached Shikarpur village ln Bachau Taluka where i boarded the night at "Ajanta Hotel".The  large palatial hotel was deserted and checked into "Room N0 101" costing Rs 700/night.Nearby excavations in Shikarpur has revealed sites belonging to the Harappan valley civilization and " Ajanta hotel " must have been a popular tourist hotel before "Covid -19" temporarily shut down the entire hospitality industry.
A long distance of 740 kms in 13 hrs. My longest ride  in 24 hrs time frame. Ahoy !" Royal Enfield Standard BULLET 350" rest stop parking at Hotel Ajanta in  Shikarpur village of Bachau Taluka in Gujarat.



This entire route was a trucker's highway with the ports of Kandla and Mundra being main destinations."Reliance Jio WiFi" was not availaible at Shikarpur and after leaving Mumbai with a heavy breakfast had excellent "Gujarati vegetarian  Thali" at "Hotel Ajanta restaurant".  



My "Royal Enfield Bullet 350"  came across this beautiful sight of the "Ship of the Desert". 



Refuelling stop in Bachau.

Tuesday(26/1/2021): - Next morning on Republic Day(Tuesday 26/1/2021) at approximately 0630 hrs in the shivering cold began my day's ride with Bhuj being 115 Kms from  Shikarpur and at 0830 hrs reached Madhapar about 5 kms from Bhuj.From here DESTINATION " WHITE DESERT " in the Great Rann of Kutch was only 91 kms.

Photo :-Refueling stop.Maximum expenditure of the Mumbai to Dhordo and back to Mumbai solo motorcycle odyssey was cost of FUEL. Rs 92 + in Maharashtra  and Rs 83 + in Gujarat.
 
At Madhapur Village .

As it was "REPUBLIC DAY" there was bustling activity in this small town and a local restaurant owner was helpful in guiding me to destination "WHITE DESERT".Breakfast was tea served in tiny cup along with a common local dish of " Gujarati Thepla " served with hot green chilies. A












Republic Day Celebrations at Darbari school in Madhapar village.


secret of the majority of the population of the Kutch region of Gujarat being immune to " Covid -19" virus could be the diet of high chilly consumption
Distances From Madhapar village

Bifurcation  of roads to Dhordo and Kalo Dungar.

.Just opposite this tiny restaurant was a local school where the "Republic Day ." ceremony was in progress .Got to witness " REPUBLIC DAY FLAG HOISTING " at " Darbari School" in Madhapar in distant Gujarat.Had ridden a long way and during my shipping career Gujarat ports were akin to a second home to me.


  Tourist Permit Office opens at 1100 hrs.



Base of Kalo Dungar
 Kalo Dungar on the hill.

After thanking the restaurant owner began my ride towards the " White Desert".
Hodka,Dhrobana,Bhirandiyara,Ludiya,Kavda, and Banni are a few villages situated on the periphery of the Great Rann of Kutch.First and foremost got my " Bullet 350" fuel tank topped to capacity.
At the foot of Kalo Dungar.






 
Wearing a traditional Kutchi Turban on Kalo Dungar.

Imagine running out of fuel in the midst of a desert and hence  advice future adventurers to not do this trip " SOLO" but in a motorcycle convoy group. Some of us ex -Seafarers of the 20th century generation are crazy risk takers which includes yours truly.Ahoy !











400 year old  Dattatreya Temple  on Kalo Dungar.


At 1115 hrs reached the main road bifurcation at Bhirandiya village where the check post office for issuing permits was situated.
View of Great Rann from Kalo Dungar

Filled a form stating my vehicle identity ,personal biodata and handed my " Aadhar Card " for identity verification. Fees are Rs 100/ Adult and Rs 50/Child.For vehicles ,motorcycle's are charged  Rs 25 and car Rs 50. This checkpost opens only at 1100 hrs so if early one has to wait for the opening of the office.
On Kalo Dungar.wearing Kutchi Turban

Indian tourists can also obtain permits through online portal which skips the queue and offers convenience.After completion of formalities proceeded on the desert ride, a frightening and exhilarating feeling if alone.


 "Magnetic Road" on way to Kalo Dungar. Vehicles move against gravity at a speed of 20 Km/hr up this slope. A optical illusion .

       
                                                                                                                                                              At the main road bifurcation , one road leads to Dhordo ,the " Rann Utsav Village " on the " White Sand desert", while the other road leads to Kalo Dungar and "India Bridge". 


After 900 Kms + riding from Mumbai at entrance of  "White Desert "  in Dhordo.


 Main road leading to the "White Desert " at Rann Utsav in Dhordo.



Akin to the film " Sholay" gambled to do the Kalo Dungar  route sightseeing first , a total  stranger  speculating of sightseeing  " KALO DUNGAR" and " WHITE SAND DESERT "  in a single day and that  too  "SOLO"
"Rann Utsav" White Desert.

.It was a long ride along a straight road with a diversion further ahead leading to " Kalo Dungar".Riding along the road sighted  a local carting his family on a camel cart akin to a Bullock cart ,amazing and a indescribable sight straight out of  the desert classic "Lawrence of Arabia ".Passed through a small village  and began my final ascent towards Kalo Dungar .Came across a Tourist resort homestay  and wa
"Rann Utsav" White Desert.


s wondering the consequences if my bike had some mechanical failure in this isolated Desert settlement akin to a ship suffering engine failure in mid-sea .Yes, the " Gambler " was on the ride of a lifetime with no " Safety Net", Ahoy !


Along the inclined meandering desert road Came across " MAGNETIC POINT " where tourists stopped their vehicles to experience the phenomenon of reverse gravity on a inclined part of the road.
"WHITE DESERT" of SALT.

Vehicles move against gravity at a speed of 20 Km/hr up this slope a optical illusion . Ahoy ! Rode past the tourist cars up the winding incline of " Kalo Dungar".Finally reached the base of Kalo Dungar which had a parking lot for mechanized vehicles as also a parking lot for camels providing joy rides to tourists.

 On a pony on "WHITE DESERT" at Rann Utsav Festival in Dhordo.



I rode my bike right up the crowded steep  slope and parked at a corner of a large parking ground on the hill.
Ride a camel on the "WHITE DESERT".

The  400 year old " Dattatreya Temple " is the most famous attraction on Kalo Dungar.The main deity Lord Dattatreya is considered a incarnation of the holy trinity of Brahma,Vishnu and Mahesh.Local belief is that Lord Dattatreya when walking on earth rested on these hills where he encountered hungry jackals to whom he offered his body as food.






Modern "Smart Phone" connectivity in the eternal"WHITE DESERT" in Great Rann of Kutch 




Photo Above :- Seafarer/Blogger/Traveller Rudolph.A.Furtado on the unbelievable "White Desert " carpet of natural salt stretching upto the horizon resembling snow. Ahoy !


As the jackals fed on his body it kept regenerating, a miracle. Hence this temple built to honour the sacrifice of lord Dattatreya.
Camels awaiting tourists on the "White Desert"

Since the last 4 centuries it's a practice of the temple priests to feed jackals everyday at noon. The priest intimates the jackals by banging on a plate with a spoon .I was outside the temple at 1215 hrs but seeing the huge crowd and besides the fact that I was a non vegetarian Catholic avoided entering the temple.



  Vegetarian samosas. snacks




As it was India's Republic day there was a large entirely local crowd with me probably the only tourist from distant Mumbai. Numerous hawkers were exhibiting their wares and camel rides as also photo' s with camels were the main attraction. I took a photo wearing a Kutch turban and also one with the " Ship of the Desert ". Ahoy ! 





Normally a food glutton at home on " Solo Tours " I live like a monk on the basic necessity of food for survival. Just a breakfast in the morning  and dinner or a lunch whichever is convenient on the travel mode. All my travel expenses either in India or Foreign country's is maximum on sightseeing, lodging/ hotel expenses and entrance tickets to prime tourist sites with food receiving the least travel budget.




Photo :- Elevated "Watch Tower " at Rann Utsav venue erected at the start of "White Desert ".The highest elevation in Dhordo Rann Utsav Tent City.

Quenched my thirst with sugarcane juice and gazed at the plains below. At a elevation of 462 meters( 1,516 ft) Kalo Dungar is the highest point in the Great Rann of Kutch and offers a view of the Indo - Pak border on a bright day through binoculars.



Photo :- In Kutch region locals don't except Rs 10 coins.Purchased this samosa costing Rs 20and had to pay in paper currency. Bizarre and true.


"Gateway to White Desert"

The visibility was poor due to a mid-day haze and hence after a short stay at the peak rode my way back towards the main road junction heading to Dhordo.On the way came across a group of cyclist from Delhi riding towards India Bridge situated further down the same main Kalo Dungar road." India Bridge" is the last bridge on the Indian side of the Indo-Pak border in the Great Rann of Kutch and on a bright day visible from Kalo Dungar.
 "Rann Utsav Tent City " at Dhordo.

No photography or videography is allowed on this bridge.They were cycling from Bhuj and boy I envy their enthusiasm and stamina .Memoirs of my own peak years of physical fitness although it didn't concern cycling but working endlessly in the ship's engine rooms in temps ranging from 40-50*c to also extremes of cold ranging from 0-'20*c.




Kutchi tourist handicrafts.

Now the layman knows why some " Shippie's" like me post retirement from active sea employment indulge in extreme adventure sports as normal life on land is too tame. Same applies to ex-armed force services personnel. Once upon a time simple" Marine Engineer " employment on some ships was the equivalent of extreme adventure  sports.


In the 21st century Maritime safety regulations have been upgraded making old ships redundant and non profitable  .Automation has made ship board engineering employment less of manual labour and today women Marine engineers are employed on some ships, toppling one of the last bastions of male dominance. Unthinkable and a fantasy during  my generation era of 20th century sailing. Change is permanent. Ahoy !
Finally reached the main road bifurcation and began my ride towards my ultimatum in land travel across India  " THE WHITE DESERT".






The "Bull Run".Kutch Decor.

The road in some stretches resembled a "Moto Gp" circuit and I tested my " Standard Bullet 350" to its maximum speed. It was a fascinating experience riding on a empty road with nothing in sight but just a stretch of desert scrub land. Finally at approximately 1435 hrs reached the entrance to " Rann Utsov Tent city village ".The Government Of the State of Gujarat sponsors the " Rann Utsav Festival " and Indian film star Amitabh.Bachchan added to the glamour through a memorable advertisement.










The " Rann Festival 2020-21" began on 1st November 2020 and would end on 28th February 2021.At 1445 hrs the crowd seemed sparse at the main entrance gate but most important fact was that "COVID -19" Pandemic that  was ravaging the World and India was unsuccessful in closing this iconic unique natural phenomenon festival.



Photo :- At Rann Utsov Festival  with Canteen Supervisor Mr Ahmed.Khan, a local Maldari tribal  who educated me on the local topography and changes in the "White Desert ".
"Tent Accommodation" at Rann Utsov

Took a photograph along with my bike at the main entrance as its rare for " SOLO" bikers to travel 1000+ Kms from distant Mumbai to view this annual Desert festival.Ahoy !
Had to get my entry gate pass scanned at the entrance and after checking my ticket was allowed to enter the "Rann Utsav Festival " grounds situated at the entrance of the " WHITE SAND DESERT".




The residential tent city camps were erected on the outer boundary of the main Rann Utsav Festival venue.Beautiful to the human eye.It was a short ride along a narrow central road decked with flag decorations  from the main entrance gate to the entrance to the " White Desert".Awesome decor and ambiance with the first sight of the " WHITE DESERT" shocking me with delight .



Photo :- Tourists and camels on the Great Rann of Kutch in Dhordo.

First parked my bike and later strolled towards the edge of the main" Rann Utsav " venue where the paved road ends and the Great Rann of Kutch White Desert began.As it was afternoon and " Covid -19" pandemic" taking its toll on tourist foot falls the crowd was sparse and total local Gujarati's.I didn't feel that India and the World was in the midst of the century's most devastating pandemic as few people except tourists were wearing "face masks".




Photo :- With local Kutchi artisan/musician Shri Manjibai.Gorewali at whose "Bhunga" i stayed the night in Dhordo.His mobile phone nos is :- 9429040794.
After 45+ years flew a kite !
 
The desert ground adjacent to the cemented Rann Utsav avenue was lined with camels,camel carts,pony's and a few local Kutch artists singing songs and dressings tourists in local Kutch attire for photo shoots.I ventured far  from the main venue ground onto the glistening white sand desert and honestly haven't seen a panorama of this magnitude.






Photo:- Felt like a child flying a kite in the "White Desert ".
Camel Cart rides on WHITE DESERT

As the crowd was minuscule felt I was alone in the midst of a white carpet of salt desert that resembled snow.Filmed photo's and video's and later approached a local troupe of Kutchi folk artists who were also offering pony rides for a photo shoot of me sitting on a pony.This was one of the few locales in the World let alone India where salt was the terrain firma and not mud,cement,grass etc.





A Walk on "White Desert".

Something to crow about long after the exhilaration of riding a horse or a camel on a white desert of salt the Great Rann of Kutch.One of the artists Shri Manjibai.Gorewali asked me regarding accomodation and told me he could accommodate me at his village residence about 4 Kms from the " Rann Utsov " venue.Agreed to the same and after taking down his phone number and paying him a cash advance of Rs 500 agreed to meet at this same spot at 1900 hrs after viewing sunset.



Photo :- Tourists strolling across the "White Desert " of the Great Rann of Kutch at Dhordo. Camel "JAMES BOND " awaiting a tourist ride. Among camels, the "K HARAI  " breed of camels are unique to Kutch. .This is a unique breed of camels that can swim in sea water and survive on saline plants and mangroves. In "National Geographic" documentary they are shown swimming across small islands when the Great Rann of Kutch gets flooded during the monsoon.



Photo Above:- SUNSET  on the "WHITE DESERT". Spotted a lone Paraglider in the distant horizon.

Photo:- Above :- Mesmerizing FULL MOON  in the Great Rann of Kutch "White Desert ". Notice the "WHITE SAND(Salt)" shimmering in the twilight.



Walked away from the desert ground onto the paved venue of the " Rann Utsav" and decided to have samosa's for lunch.




 Photo Below :- Local tribal Kutchi dinner at Shri Manjibai.Gorewali "Bhunga" house near Dhordo. Dinner was 1) Jaggery 2) Vegetables 3) Bajra roti's and pure home made ghee. At first i presumed these kids to be from different parents in this tiny one horse village and was surprised the next morning when Manjibai told me that all these 6 kids, 2 girls and 4 boy's were his children. His 6 young children all seemed to have a age difference of just a few years between them and they educated me in tasting Kutchi cuisine.The kids mistook me and the  "Standard Bullet 350" to be U.F.O's and i was really embarrassed at the attention received by these kids normally reserved for Amitabh. Bachchan by adults. This is their normal daily food and " COVID -19" is almost non existent in the Kutch region of Gujarat. TRAVEL EDUCATES. Manjibai and his family are also non -vegetarians and consume chicken.



Each vegetarian samosa cost Rs 20 and when I handed over the stall owner 2 ten rupee coins was aghast when he refused to except the same.

Photo Below :- My nights stay in this classic " Bhunga Hut" with the night temp being 5-7* c. Shivering  cold .Notice the layout of the palatial bed with loads of blankets. As also the single fan on the ceiling of the Bhunga hut. .Kutchi tribal paintings on the external walls of the Bhunga huts.Brought back memories of travel acrossTurkey in 2015 and staying in a natural limestone cave room in Goreme in Turkey. The total cost of my one night Bhunga stay amounted to Rs 1400 which included dinner and breakfast. Travel Educates. 
 
A single Fan fitted on the conical ceiling of the " BHUNGA HUT'.


Palatial bed with qulit blankets inside tiny "BHUNGA HUT".. Notice the Kutchi art decor.


View of the "BHUNGA HUTS".I was the lone tourist and stayed on the left side Bhunga hut.


A unforgettable chill night (5-7*C) inside this classic "Bhunga Hut".

I had faced the same situation at " Ajanta hotel" in Shikarpur and seems in entire Kutch region the villagers refuse to except Rs 10 coins although legal and in circulation all over India. I now realized the dangers of investing in  " FIRST WORLD BITCOINS ",a rage across the Globe during the PANDEMIC.
A Common tribal Bhunga hut.

Ahoy !After having two samosa for lunch strolled across the venue which would come to life with entertainment after sunset. Later rode my motorbike to the main entrance gate and observed the tent city on the periphery of the venue. A person approached me for accommodation in the tent city costing Rs1500 and I realized that accommodation was not a issue at the Rann festival at Dhordo. Strolling aimlessly around the venue was approached by a young man who invited me to his stall for refreshments.
Manjibai.Gorewali's residence.

Hence had a very interesting conversation with Shri Ahmed.Khan a " Kutchi Maldari" tribal whose ancestry profession is cattle herding and domestication of cattle/camels..As a " SOLO TRAVELER" have never ever felt lonely picking conversations with total strangers and making acquaintances with different nationalities irrespective of sex or age. While travelling you are never ever alone.



Photo :- Residence of Manjibai.Gorewali situated at a corner of his small farmland. Milch buffaloes was the cattle of this tiny village.
Above Photo :- Outside my " Bhunga" residence. Notice the Banni bush scrubland.Heard wild boars at night.


Ahmed.Khan explained me the various seasons of this very locale where we were sitting which during the monsoon would be submerged with sea water.
Scrub grassland vegetation.

He worked as the stall supervisor and stayed in a village just a few kilometers from Dhordo. He told me that a decade ago the "White Salt Desert " extended to a much bigger area than the present and was shrinking with the passage of time. Are nearby Industry effluents responsible for the shrinkage of the " White desert " in the Great Rann of Kutch ?
Milking early in the morning.

After two tiny cups of tea bird Ahmed goodbye and rode my bike back to the " WHITE DESERT SAND" ground. After parking my bike headed onto the desert and just went crazy admiring the natural beauty of Planet Earth. Noticed a seated camel with the name " James Bond" painted on its body and only hope that some day a scene from a " 007 James Bond" movie franchise is filmed   on the " White Desert " in the Great Rann of Kutch.


Scrub Desert Vegetation.

As the Sun ray's diminished the crowd increased and the now once partially Tourist populated white sand desert was teeming with local tourists enjoying camel rides, horse cart rides or just walking endlessly on the open white sand of salt. Suddenly I observed a kite in the sky drifting towards me and at the sight of the kite transformed myself into my teen years of kite flying and caught the string of the drifting kite and started flying it.





Photo :- Banni grassland scrub bushes.
 
Typical tribal village milch cattle.

Was I actually Senior Citizen Rudolph  of 2021 or Mombasa/Byculla boy Rudolph of the 1960/70's . Ahoy !I flew the kite like a professional kite flyer filled with nostalgia of my kite flying years that began as a kid in Mombasa in Kenya and terminating in 1975  at our last residence of Byculla in Mumbai  .
Breakfast outside my Bhunga Hut

After passing on the kite string to another Tourist just strolled around the desert.From 1830 hrs onwards  observed  the Sun gradually  set on the east while a almost Full moon rose from the west. A sight to behold.As darkness set in the white sand desert glowed and a sight worth travelling thousands of kilometers to witness .





Photo :- Morning breakfast on Wednesday(27/1/2021) .Notice the artwork on the outer wall of the Bhunga hut. The mud floor of the farm estate is paved with cow-buffalo dung.
 
Tribal Kutchi breakfast

Contacted Shri Manjibai .Gorewali through phone and met him at the appointed place on the desert.He and his fellow performing artist packed their day's articles in a bag and we walked towards the Rann Utsav venue.He told me to wait at my bike while he and his partner collected their bikes and then we all three would head home to his village farm house in the Banni grassland.The " Rann Utsav Tent City " entertainment began at night with various different cultural programmes finally winding up at 2200 hrs.



Photo :- Kutchi village breakfast on Wednesday(27/1/2021)
Bajra Roti's ,Jaggery, Home butter and pickles with excellent tea.
Common "Kutchi Tribal" breakfast.

After a short time frame Manjibai and his partner arrived on their motorcycles and we manoeuvred our way through the packed crowd of tourists that were now visiting the various entertainment stalls inside the venue.
Traffic Jam at Road Repairs junction.

It was chill cold at 7 * c and the 4 kms ride in the dark forest trail to Manjibai's farmhouse was akin to a extreme adventure ride for my heavy " BULLET 350"." HORSES FOR COURSES " is the mantra for adapting to topographical changes and light two wheelers are the best mode of transport on the soft mud topography of the Great Rann of Kutch.
Tyre pressure and luggage Bungy hook check.

Finally at approximately 1945 hrs reached Manjibai's farmhouse which was authentic Kutchi tribal living.He lived with his family and children in a separate village hut on his tiny farmland and had built two Tourist " Bhunga's" on his land as a source of income.
Unbelievable crash near Reliance petrol pump near Surendranagar. Lucky to be standing and not in hospital or in the afterlife. Ahoy !

On entering my " Bhunga" was transferred  into a different  world of residence bringing back memories of staying in the cave hut hotel in Cappadocia in Turkey.
Youth to my rescue after the fall.

Exotic India  with its topographic, religious, cultural and language diversity is always a surprise to fellow Indians let alone foreigners. .Even to a pathological traveller who has visited 81 country's and entire India except Lakshadweep island the Great Rann of Kutch  was a discovery.
A youth testing my bike.

Manjibai had to return to the Rann Utsov festival as he was  in a music troupe preforming at the elite "Tent city  Rann Festival" and hence couldn't accompany me for dinner as he would be back home only after 2200 hrs...
Damage to Bike.

His children brought me dinner as the womenfolk never mingle with strangers. Dinner was in my " Bhunga" and the kids literally fed me. To them I was a source of alien curiosity. After dinner bid the kids goodbye and spent a restless almost sleepless night due to the extreme cold weather. At night heard some strange animal or bird  sounds followed by restless barking of dogs. Tribal's and people living in forest environment are accustomed to animal sounds.
"ROYAL ENFIELD "& Rider.Built like a Bullet ? 

On Wednesday(27/1/2021) at daybreak ventured out of my Bhunga  and the sight was amazing. The entire tiny  farmhouse land  was paved with cow-buffalo dung giving the morning air that strange fragrance of village soil.
Panchvati hotel in Limbdi 

W e were in a small village situated in the midst of the Banni forest. A buffalo was being milked and didn't observe any chickens. Checked the bike sump and topped some oil that I was carting with my luggage. Petrol and lubricating sump oil are the lifelines of motorcycling, especially if you venture into a endless desert akin to a ship on the ocean.
After a Unbelievable motorcycle crash.  Bruised but not down on a Full Moon night at Hotel Panchvati in Limbdi 

Ahoy ! Manjibai's kid's were awake and later on meeting him inquired about the strange animal sounds at night which it seems were wild boars. He informed me that after delivering milk we would have breakfast.
Dinner at Panchvati. 

After delivering milk on his moped he came over to my Bhunga compound and laid a village  bamboo cot on the compound. Breakfast consisting of Bajra Roti, Desi butter, jaggery and mango pickle was  served on the cot.  After " Kutchi Dinner" I was now having " Kutchi breakfast" .Gujarati community spread across the Globe is one of the wealthiest communities  and I was wondering as to how long  this subsistence tribal lifestyle of Kutch Gujarat would last as modernization innovations changed the average Kutchi lifestyle ?
Dinner of Masala Dosa.& Sweet Lassi

Manjibai 's six young kids who envied my lifestyle would definitely want the best comforts in life.My advice is visit Kutch Gujarat before lifestyle changes occur and entire Kutch region becomes a artificial tourist destination with 5 or 3 -star "Bhunga Huts" for tourists as seen in the artificial "Rann Utsov Tent city..As a Mangalorean Catholic I have witnessed cultural changes in my own parents ancestral villages of Barkur and Mabukala in the coastal district of Udipi in the State of  Karnataka.
Road to " Statue of Unity "

Agriculture once the staple occupation of these villages has all but disappeared. Both my paternal and maternal grandparents were agriculturists and today not a single relative directly involved in agriculture. Change is permanent. Finally at  0945 hrs bid goodbye to the Banni grasslands and followed Manjibai's moped onto the main "Dhordo- Bhuj" highway. Bid him farewell and began my long ride back to Bhuj.
Plaque at Main entrance to " Statue of Unity " viewing promenade.

Cruising between 80 -100 km / hr on straight roads is the advantage of owning one of the World's cheapest long distance cruiser's, the " Royal Enfield Bullet 350", the poor man's "Harley Davidson". No wonder the "Royal Enfield Bullet 350" is the model having the longest continuous production among  motorcycles brands with facts  and statistics matching the iconic advertisement, "Built like a Bullet". Ahoy !
View from  main venue

Certain stretches of the road were bad and undergoing repairs and hence utmost presence of mind required while accelerating and decelerating. Passed along a beautiful wetland having terns and ducks and it's at these stages of travel  a person realizes the pleasure of motorcycle cruising. At approximately 1130 hrs reached the main Bhuj -bypass road and inquired directions to Mandvi beach .During employment on a ship the port of "Kandla" was a regular home port and hence during 1997-1998 had visited Bhuj and Gandhinagar from the port of Kandla. Had visited the beautiful "Prag Mahal" and "Aina Mahal" museums in Bhuj and hence decided to avoid staying in Bhuj.
Vindhya and Satpura Mts.

From this particular point of the "BHUJ-BYPASS ROAD"  my ride  was a nightmare of biblical proportions in the term of a "Bad day" akin to a "Curse"  with nothing but trouble being my companion .Anyone seconding my name as a survivor of most motorcycle accidents in India ? A day of unbelievable misery akin to India getting out for their lowest total of 36 runs in Cricket. This fall was a exact replica of my 2020 accident while returning from Junnar in the State of Maharashtra..
Statue of Sardar Vallabhai.Patel (Statue of Unity) as viewed from main exhibition venue 

But this was more bizarre akin to a supernatural force at work on a "FULL MOON" night. First my stationary motorcycle tilts over and falls while asking directions for Mandvi from a vegetable seller at the Bhuj - Bypass road.
Statue of Sardar Vallabhai.Patel (Statue of Unity).

Lost my sentimental aviator Sunglasses that was with me since 1979 during the mayhem of lifting my motorcycle .I am a legend for my "absentminded" memory and have lost countless sunglasses with this one being the only one to have survived a usage of 4 decades.
TOURIST BUS TRAIL'S FOR SIGHTSEEING "STATUE OF  UNITY "  & OTHER  ATTRACTIONS.

Some lucky finder would now be the prized owner of this beautiful sunglasses seen in all my photo's right down to the "Great Rann of Kutch"..Canceled my Mandvi sightseeing itinerary and instead decided to ride to Kevadia to see the "Statue of Unity". Riding towards Ahmedabad got confused and lost my way later retracing the same after doing a extra 50 Kms + at a time when petrol is as costly as gold besides also wasting unnecessary precious "Riding Energy".
Tourist Trail's at Statue of Unity.

At a Police diversion checkpoint a car brushed me from the back and sped away before the cop could stop him .Someone told me that Gujarat has a lot of rash driving and i almost became a model for a "Hit & Run" victim.Luckily the barricade rails saved me from falling .Later at 1645 hrs while riding when about 180 kms from Ahmedabad while passing alongside a Reliance petrol pump in Surendranagar District hit a diversion barricade and the consequences was a crashed motorcycle with me sprawled on the floor.
"Guide Cycle Tours" at Statue of Unity.

Akin to a footballer quickly got back to my feet happy that no bones or body parts were damaged. Ahoy !The youth at the petrol pump went out of their way to help me ,giving me FIRST AID and also minor repairs to the bike.
Seafarer/Blogger/Traveller Rudolph A.Furtado at Statue of Unity .

They didn't charge me a rupee for the favour. After starting the bike rode ahead in search of the nearest hotel and realized my laptop had fallen off from the broken luggage carrier.
View from VIEWING GALLERY of Statue of Unity.

Checked into " Hotel Panchvati " on Limbdi highway..Bike and me are built like a bullet ..Definitely and positively my last long distance motorcycle ride.Nothing left to prove and recovering from accidents is not macho nor a pleasure at my young age.
Due to the "Covid-19" pandemic this plush hotel was devoid off tourists and the hotel staff allotted me a abandoned room for a princely Rs1000/Night rental
Viewing gallery 153 meters(45 storeys)

. After a warm bathe went to the plush hotel restaurant that was crowded with customers and dinner was a giant size "Masala Dosa" which i was guilty of not consuming in its entirety. I hate wasting food irrespective of its cost. My accident abrasion wounds on the legs were painful and somehow spent a sleepless night.
Next morning on Thursday(28/1/2021) in morning daylight began my long ride towards Kevadia
View from Viewing Gallery 

.On the highway at approximately 0900 hrs stopped at Hotel Amber for breakfast of "Idli/Medhu wada chutney/ sambar" with tea and proceeded ahead taking the bypass road to Vasad and hence avoided entering Ahmedabad.The road was horrendous in stages with heavy lorry traffic amidst beautiful countryside green farm vegetation, a nightmare for puny 2-wheeler vehicles. Finally reached Vasad and entered the main Gujarat - Mumbai highway, a relief.
On viewing Gallery 

My next biggest hurdle was finding the route to "Statue of Unity" in Kevadia .Stopping along the highway kerbs for directions was finally told to take the service road on seeing the sign board "RAJPIPLA" before the start of the highway over-bridge. To my relief after a series of rides over 3 highway land over-bridges finally on approaching the 4th over-bridge saw the bold green signboard "RAJPIPLA".
SARDAR SAROVAR DAM

Didn't ride over the top but took the ground "Service road".From the service road turned left and a bold sign board greets tourists stating welcome to "Statue of Unity" giving the mileage required to reach the destination in Kevadia.
Car Park /Ticket booking and  Tourist bus stop. 

In stretches this road was akin to a "Moto GP" highway and as usual set sail on full throttle towards the "Statue of Unity" situated on the banks of the "Sardar Sarovar Dam".Finally after a long ride passed alongside "Kevadia Railway Station"."Kevadia Railway Station" was recently opened on Sunday(17/1/2021) and is a State of the art 21st century railway station being the first railway station in India to have a "Green building certificate".
FULL MOON at S.O.I

This railway station was specifically built for tourists and locals visiting the statue of Sardar Vallabhai Patel called as the "Statue of Unity". From "Kevadia Railway Station" it was another long 7 Kms ride to destination "Statue of Unity" with the road being a replica of a "Moto GP" track.On sighting the towering "Statue of Unity" from the road was gaping with wonder at this unbelievable sight.I have not visited New York and seen the World's most famous statue, "The Statue of Liberty" but the "Statue of Unity", the tallest statue in the World will definitely make Kevadia a household name in places of tourism sites across the Globe.
Statue of Unity and the landmark locales being illuminated. 

Finally on approaching a "Police Entrance Check-post" was asked for my ticket and told that a "Online Ticket" was essential for entry. The policeman gave me directions to the ticket purchasing booth which was a 1 Km ride from the "Ticket check post".



Sound and Laser  show at " Statue of Unity".

On arriving at the "Ticket Issuing booth" was told by a policeman that issuing of local tickets was stopped due to "COVID -19" pandemic and now tickets could only be purchased online.I was shocked as to all my riding to Kevadia going to waste without visiting the "Statue of Unity" site.
1900 hrs- Sound & Laser show

Thankfully the policeman assisted me in purchasing a ticket on-line through my debit card and heaved a sigh of relief when my Rs 380 entrance fee was accepted and a on-line ticket issued for a time slot of "1400 - 1600 hrs" .Please book your tickets on-line well in advance on holiday's , etc as at times it could be house-full .Thanking the policeman rode back to the ticket checkpost and entered the sprawling "Sardar Sarowar Statue of Unity" estate. Parked my bike at a common parking lot next to one of the main entrance gates.Lunch was a single vegetarian samosa at a cafetaria situated before the entrance gate.On entering the entrance gate was greeted by the sight of the Narmada river,the Sardar Sarovar Dam and the towering Statue of Unity which was first opened to the common public on Thursday 1 November 2018..The statue is built on a river island named "Sadhu Bet" facing the "Narmada Dam" which is 3.2 Kms away.Word's can't do justice to the awesome beauty of the towering 182 meters(597 ft) "Statue of Unity" , the tallest in the World.The significance of the height 182 meters coincides with the number of seats in the Gujarat Legislative assembly.Entered the museum hall which is situated at the base of the statue.The museum has sculptors of Sardar Vallabhai.Patel and catalogues the life of Sardar Vallabhai Patel.Next caught the elevator which can carry 26 people at a time and reached the "VIEWING GALLERY" which is at a height of 153 meters or the equivalent of viewing from a 45 storey building in just 30 seconds.
"Gujarati Buffet Dinner" at BRG.

The viewing gallery has a capacity to accomodate 200 people and has guides to educate tourists on the topographical sites viible from the gallery. A lady guide was extremely helpful in explaining the various topography sites seen from the "Viewing Gallery" which is the chest of the statue.She showed us the small lake where the "Seaplanes" landed, carting tourists from Ahmedabad and later returning them back to Ahmedabad.The first such sea plane service in India. The guide would be shocked to know that this injured "Young Man" had travelled almost 1600 Kms + by road to reach the site of the "Statue of Unity".
Buffet Dinner at BRG Budget Stay.

The statue has more of copper content and hence akin to the "Statue of Liberty" would turn green over the years.The statue has been built to withstand winds of upto 180 Km/hr and earthquakes measuring 6.5 Km on the Richter scale. From the viewing gallery after a photo-shoot made my exit from the museum and onto the lawns on a bright sunny afternoon.Later made my exit and rode across the sprawling estate towards the "Dam Viewing" venue.The "Sardar Sarovar" dam viewing venue is situated below the sprawling "Car Park" and "Ticket Booking" counter.Parked my vehicle in the "Car Park" and walked down to the Dam site viewing gallery.
"B"  wing of "Hotel BRG Budget Stay" akin to living in a private "Studio Apartment"..Excellent.

Awesome seeing a large dam from such close quarters. Besides visiting the main "Statue of Unity" there are various other places of tourist sites within the large sprawling estate. There is a"Cactus Garden", "Butterfly Park" and a "Dinosaur Park". "River Rafting" is also possible from Khalwani situated near "Statue of Unity".It would require a minimum of 2 full day's to sight-see and experience the entire "Statue of Unity" locales and aura
.

KALA GHODA :- Equestrian statue of  Maharaja Sir Shri Vijaysinhji the 36th and last Gohil Rajput leader of  Rajpipla State  from 1915 till merger with India in 1948.He was also India's greatest race horse owner having won a hat-trick of Derby races which included the Irish and Epsom Derby.The "Epsom Derby"  held since 1780 is the mother of  all Derby races .In 1934  Maharajah Sir Vijaysjnhji  won the Epsom Derby with "Windsor Lad".



"Tourist buses" arrive and depart from the "Car Park" locale carting tourist's to the various sites within the "Statue of Unity" estate. Bicycle tour rides are also organized.
At 1900 hrs was the spectacular "Sound and Light" show that lasted upto 1920 hrs and was something unique.
After the "Sound and Laser" show quickly headed towards the parking lot and after starting my bike asked for directions to "BRG BUDGET STAY" hotel that had advertising hoarding on the approach highway to "Statue of Unity".
Breakfast stop before "Highway Ride"

If wanting to experience the ambiance of the Narmada river then book in advance and stay at the "Statue of Unity Tent city - 1 ".Located on the island of Sadhu - Bet on River Narmada ,the "Tent City" is surrounded by River Narmada on one side and the Vindhya and Satpura mountain ranges on the other side.If planned in advance i would have definitely stayed in the "Statue of Unity Tent City -1" but at present was in a situation where finding a simple room to stay was a luxury.With some difficulty managed to locate "BRG Budget Stay" hotel but was aghast when told at the reception that the hotel was house-full.I told them i was recovering from a road accident and would leave the next day for Mumbai even requesting the reception to allow me to spend the night at the hotel reception guest lobby.The reception staff made a phone call and after a short break told me that i would be accommodated in "Room N0 101" in "B" block of the hotel campus.
Main diversion for  Ankleswar-Bharuch to Mumbai.

Thanking him and paying the night charges of Rs 950 collected my key and headed to "B" wing. My room on the first floor was akin to a "Studio Apartment". Excellent.The weather at Kevadia was cool in comparison to my stay at the other 3 locales in Gujarat. After a "Jacuzzi style" hot water bathe for the first time wore short sleeve shirt and headed to the dining room of this classic "Apartment style" hotel complex.
A stop on Borivali highway to fasten my luggage carrier.

Dinner was "Gujarati Vegetarian Buffet" followed by ice-cream as dessert at the hotel's restaurant "Hotel Plazzo". Excellent with your's truly the "Hard core carnivore" relishing the vegetarian delicacies. Dinner cost was Rs 368 and this was my most expensive food fare of the entire motorcycle odyssey. Ahoy !.
After dinner had a good night's sleep in the warm room, a real luxury from the biting cold and motorcycle bruises pain.
Next morning on Friday (29/1/2021) began my homeward ride to Mumbai.As usual asking directions along the way finally reached the main highway juction road leading to Ankleshwar that has a landmark statue of  Maharajah Sir Vijaysinhji,the last ruler of Rajpipla State.Locals refer to this iconic statue as "Kala Ghoda". .Breakfast was "Gujarati Dhokla","Bhajiya's" and "Gujarati Samoosa" along with 2 tiny cups of tea at a road side stall on the pavement facing the equestrian statue. Excellent.From this junction it was a matter of skill ,luck and decades of experience for a bruised rider to ride a bruised and battered motorcyle on one of the busiest highway's.After breakfast began my ride and to my dismay the luggage carrier box rope gave way and my electronic equipment was flung onto the highway. Immediately stopped my bike but in the meantime a car had driven over the packet..What if it was me on that road and not a tangible article ? Retrieved my damaged packet and after retightening the luggage carrier headed to Mumbai. It was a excellent but dangerous ride without the aid of my navigational reflective mirror's.
 "SOLO RIDE " :- Mumbai- Great Rann of Kutch(Rann Utsav Festival)- Kedia(Statue of Unity)- Mumbai motorcycle ride accomplished in 5 day's. Covered a total distance of 2000 Kms +..A "Benchmark" for future "Solo Riders" ?  

Couldn't find a mechanic but this highway was familiar to me. On reaching Manor stopped for a rest break and lunch was a piece of chocolate and sweet lassi.From here it was non stop riding to Mumbai finally reaching Old Prabhadevi road at 1630 hrs..Bruised, battered but undefeated i had accomplished my dream ride of 2000 Kms + to the "Great Rann of Kutch" and back to Mumbai in just 5 day's having stayed in 4 different hotels/ Bhunga hut . Also announced my retirement from long distance motorcycle cruising as the younger rider's are set a "Bench Mark" for "SOLO MOTORCYCLE RIDING" in the future. Why do you climb Mt Everest ? Because it is there ! Ahoy !